Basic Digital Photography II: Getting the
Light Source Right
By: Christine Peppler
Lighting is the single most critical factor in
determining the quality of any photograph. Although
with digital cameras you can edit after the fact,
such features are limited and it is more effective
to assure that you get the best exposure when taking
the shot. The amount of light on the image sensor,
or exposure, is determined by the opening/closing of
the aperture, the length of time that the shutter is
open, and the amount of light present. For the
purposes of this article, the discussion will be
limited to working with and enhancing the light
present for the shot.
 When the light in a situation is not sufficient or
when you want to create a different effect with
highlights and shadows, an internal flash or
external light source can be used. The happy news
for the photography novice is that digital cameras
have an auto flash feature in which the camera
decides when lighting is insufficient and will
activate the flash automatically. One of the most
important things to remember about using flash
photography for the novice is that all cameras have
a flash range. Beyond that range, generally no more
than 14 to 15 feet, the flash is not effective.
Flash is most often used when shooting indoors where
there is generally less light.
One of the pitfalls
of using flash when photographing people and animals
however is the infamous "red eye" effect which is
created when the light bounces off of the back of
the retina of the subject. This can be reduced by
having subjects avoid looking directly into the
camera or using the "red eye reduction" mode. This
mode simply emits a tiny flash prior to taking the
picture to help the pupil contract prior to the full
flash. Glare is another common problem encountered
when using flash photography but can easily be
eliminated by being sure not to point the camera
directly into any shiny object such as a mirror or
glass. Most digital cameras allow the user to have
control of the flash function giving them the
ability to disable it for use in situations where
flash is not allowed or the user is striving to
achieve a particular look in the picture. It also
allows the user to set the flash so that it is
always on, allowing the flash to be used even when
the camera senses adequate lighting.
Flash can be used to deal with some lighting related
problems outdoors as well. Sunlight can create
shadows and cause the subject to appear dark and
difficult to discern with the brighter, sunlit area
around them. One option is to pose your subject in
the shade. Taking photographs in the shade often
provides images with better/truer color definition,
no shadows, and subjects free from squinting. When
in the sunlight, use of the flash can be
particularly helpful in balancing the light and
reducing shadows. The fill-flash mode can be useful
in any situation where the subject will be darker
than the surrounding background whether they are
shaded by a hat, a tree, or simply their own facial
features. However, fill-flash mode should be used
only when the subject is within 6 feet. Beyond this
distance full power mode will be necessary.
Use of an external or auxiliary flash can give the
user the control necessary to adjust lighting and
create special effects. Just as the intensity of a
light source influences the exposure in a picture,
the direction of the light source can change an
image through shadows and highlights. A flash can be
attached to a camera with either a "cold shoe" or a
"hot shoe". A cold shoe is merely a plastic shoe
that allows the flash to be physically attached to
the camera but does not have any contacts that allow
the camera to communicate or coordinate the flash
activity. With a hot shoe, users can attach a flash
sync cord, allowing them to move the flash away from
the camera and choose the direction of the lighting.
In addition, a hot shoe attachment allows the flash
to be controlled by the camera's flash settings.
With the external flash, there are various modes to
control the flash function.
* The TTL setting allows the camera and flash to
determine the best exposure based upon the focal
length of the lens. This is possible when the camera
and the flash are of the same brand.
* The Stroboscopic setting can produce multiple
flashes within a single exposure to create special
effects.
* The Manual setting allows the user to set the
flash for full, half, or quarter power.
* The Auto setting allows the flash to determine the
best exposure independently. This is used most often
when the camera and flash are not of the same brand.
 There are two primary types of lighting used in
photography. A hard light is created from a single,
bright source of light and it produces shadows,
highlights and pronounced contrast in the resulting
image. Soft light on the other hand is very diffuse,
making highlights and shadows more subtle. Hard
light is preferable when detail and distinct color
is desired, but soft light is best for a softer
image. Light from a single source can be diffused in
a number of ways. The flash can be covered with a
thin material such as tissue or wax paper or it can
be bounced off of another surface, such as the
ceiling or a wall, rather than being shown directly
onto the subject. Bouncing the light is obviously
not effective outdoors and the distance of the
reflecting structure should be no more than 6-8
feet. The color of the surface reflecting the light
must also be considered. Any color on the surface is
generally reflected onto the subject. For this
reason, white is generally preferred although
professionals use black to absorb light and darken
shadows and shiny materials are used to harden the
light.
As mentioned previously, the direction of lighting
can also greatly influence the characteristics of a
photograph. The use of an external flash gives the
user the option of moving the light source in
relation to the subject. Front lighting is the most
common. When wanting to emphasize the detail of the
subject, front lighting is the best choice. However,
it can create a rather harsh image with shadows in
the background, muted colors in the foreground, and
red eye. The use of fill flash and red eye reduction
when using front lighting can help to alleviate some
of the negative effects, while diffusing the light
can reduce harshness. Back lighting can produce a
very dramatic photograph but, if too bright, can
cause the subject to appear only as a silhouette
unless the object is transparent. Reducing the
brightness of the light source and using fill flash
to brighten the shadowed areas can improve the
quality of a picture with back lighting. Providing
lighting from an angle rather than directly from the
front or back can be beneficial in either of these
lighting situations.
Lighting can also be directed from the side, the
top, and from under the subject. Side lighting gives
the user the most options as far as angle and the
ability to create a wide variety of effects. Side
lighting is optimal for creating texture and a sense
of depth to a photograph.
For the novice photographer, experimentation is key.
Whether diffusing light for softer images, using
fill flash outdoors to eliminate shadows, or
altering the direction of lighting to create special
effects, creating unique, quality images requires
practice.
About the Author
Christine Peppler shares information on home
electronics products and home entertainment on her
site at:
http://www.homemedias.info
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