10 Ways To Make Sure Your Image's Bright
Red Is Bright And Red
By: Erik Vlietinck
Graphic designers, photographers, publishers and
computer users at large: they all rely on their
digital equipment being capable of rendering colours
right. But the sad truth is your colours will differ
depending on the output device. A monitor's red is
not the same as an inkjet printer's red. Besides,
what is "red"?
Here are 10 things you can do to make sure red is
red, no matter which device has to render it.
1. Buy a good monitor. OK, this is an open
door, but by "good" i mean a monitor that you can
calibrate. That rules out all the office monitors,
the Apple Cinemas and leaves you with LaCie 300
range and Eizo ColorEdge products.
2. Buy a good calibration and profiling
application. Even if you can't afford an Eizo
ColorEdge, buy Color Solutions' basICColor Display.
This software comes with a high-quality
GretagMacbeth Display 2 colorimeter (called the
"Squid 2" by Color Solutions), and has a feature
called "software calibration". The latter calibrates
any monitor by storing the calibration data (the
Tone Response Curve) in the video card's lookup
tables. The only requirement: your video card should
support it. ATI's Radeon range supports this.
3. Calibrate and create a colour profile for your
monitor once a month. Calibration is different
from profiling. Calibration means the colour lookup
tables in the monitor are put into a known state,
while a profile merely describes the monitor's
perception of colours. With calibration you tell the
monitor that it must render "pure red" by setting
its colour channels in a certain manner. The profile
you create will tell your image editing software, or
graphic design application that pure red for this
monitor means a specific mixture of its colour
channels.
4. Buy an inkjet printer which has non-clogging
printheads. Ideally, printheads should never
clog. If they do, you can rest assured your colours
will come out awful. If they don't, you can still
have bad colours, but now at least you can something
about it. Good printers are a bit more expensive
than the bottom-price inkjet printers you can buy
these days. Think of paying something like 200 USD
at a minimum. For top-notch printers like the HP
Photosmart Pro B9180, expect to pay 700 USD.
5. Drive your inkjet through a Raster Image
Processor. Many high-end printers support a RIP,
but not all RIPs are created equal. EFI makes good
RIPs, as do the vendors that develop more expensive
RIPs for large format printers. EFI has a decent
RIP, with support for ink limiting, black start
setting, etc, for a very decent price. It's the EFI
Designer Edition.
6. Profile your printer and use that profile with
your RIP to get accurate colours, and save money on
ink consumption. Through the profile settings,
you can actually determine how much ink gets sprayed
onto the page. For some paper types, you can save a
lot of money by setting ink limiting optimally for
your printer.
7. Use established equipment such as X-Rite/GretagMacbeth
or Barbieri to generate your CMYK printer profile.
You should create a profile for every paper not
supported by your printer manufacturer. If you must
use your printer in RGB mode, you can do with less
expensive profiling systems. The best way to ensure
a good quality profile is made when you don't have
the budget to buy a system that costs a few thousand
dollars, is to appeal to a remote service such as
Thinck.com's.
8. Use an image editing application such as
Photoshop, which has a "softproof" feature. To
softproof means that you'll be able to visually
determine an image's colours on-screen with enough
accuracy to be confident the colours will match the
printed output. Softproofing is never one-on-one,
but can come very close, and is another way of
saving money by saving on both wasted paper and ink.
8. When editing your image, set the grey balance
first. Select a neutral grey area in your image
(if you took a photo, you'll remember what was grey,
and if you don't, there are almost always objects
that must be grey) and set this area as your neutral
grey tone. In Photoshop or Photoshop Elements, you
do this by selecting the Levels or Curves tool,
selecting the grey eyedropper in the dialogue
window, and clicking with this tool in the neutral
area of your image.
9. If your image has a warm tone to it, e.g. because
it was shot at dusk or with tungsten light and no
flash, you can neutralize colour casts
somewhat by choosing an area that is not exactly
neutral but more towards the warm tone of the image.
As long as the area is greyish by nature, the image
will adjust accordingly.
10. Be careful with setting Saturation levels too
high. If you boost saturation, you're also
bossting colour inaccuracies. You can boost the
saturation of your image when you're sure it is
colour-accurate.
These and many more tips, tricks, and tutorials, but
also product reviews and in-depth technology and
methodology background information is available on
IT-Enquirer.com. IT-Enquirer is an online magazine
aimed at creative professionals. It contains
articles for beginners all the way up to experts in
the field.
About the Author
Erik Vlietinck has over 8 years of experience
writing for European trade magazines, such as Dutch
Publish, ProFoto, and UK MacFormat and Computer
Arts. Erik is the publisher and editor of
IT-Enquirer.
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